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Machu Picchu

    In a way, it's wonderful that Machu Picchu can nowadays be visited on a day A22 trip from Cuzco. Everyone probably should have a chance to see this remarkable place.

    Like many travellers, I hoped to get a taste of Machu Picchu's 'lost in the clouds' atmosphere by approaching the ruins on foot A23 via the Inca trail. I joined the obligatory tour group in Cuzco, then spent the next four days surrounded by others making the classic pilgrimage. Along the way, we crossed several breathtaking Andean passes, treading on original Inca paving stones, and passing several other fine ruins.

    Our last A24 overnight stop was at an exquisitely beautiful site called Huinay Huayna, where dozens of impossibly steep terraces cascade into a deep green gorge backed by a high waterfall. My new-found travelling companions included five Argentines who A25 shared my interest in exploring Huinay Huayna by moonlight.

    The only problem was a slight difference in styles. Mine was more along the lines of silent and meditative contemplation; theirs involved a ritualistic circle chant, led by the charismatic lone male in the group whom I thereafter nicknamed the Warlock. Absenting myself from the circle that night, I made a mental note to A26 keep my distance from them the next day at Machu Picchu.

    Before dawn the following morning we climbed to the mountaintop Gateway of the Sun, hoping for the classic panoramic view of Machu Picchu before the tour buses arrived. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate. With dozens of other disappointed trekkers, I shivered on the hilltop in chilly fog for two hours, waiting for a sunrise that never came, then trudged down the hill to Machu Picchu itself. As I A27 descended, the clouds started lifting, revealing the place to be every bit as spectacular as I could have hoped. By day's end, my tour group had dispersed, apparently preferring a hot bath. I, however, felt I was just A28 scratching the surface.